top of page
TEXTILES
In this class I learn the process of fabric construction; analyze fibers, yarns, fabrics, finishes, and the fabric choices in the design of clothing.
Textiles: Projects
MID-TERM PROJECT: SPECIAL USE TEXTILE
IE TOGA (PANDANUS MAT)
Many years ago in the island of Samoa, there lived a woman named Maofa. She was known throughout the islands as the greatest weaver to ever live. Her greatest achievement was creating the first fine woven mat. It was said that her mat was the most beautiful one ever created. Many copies were attempted but never came close to the original. Her mat was passed down, from daughter to granddaughter and so on until her great granddaughter, Tauoloasii came to owning the prized mat. One night, her mother and two men who were competing for her hand in marriage, went fishing. Tauoloasii went along with them and she set up camp for them on the beach with her special mat and torches. While her mother and the men went fishing, a boat Tonga carrying a member is the royal court sailed by. The courtier saw Tauoloasii sleeping on the mat surrounded by torches and wanted to take her home as a prize for the king. Tauoloasii and her party tried to escape but unfortunately they were caught and taken back to Tonga as slaves for the king of Tonga. The king decided to marry Tauoloasii and she joined the rest of his wives. Due to jealousy and false rumors created by his other wives, Tauoloasii and her mother were to be burned alive. In order to save herself and her mother, Tauoloasii gave her fine mat as an offering to the king. Amazed by its beauty, the king spared their lives and named mat Tasiaeafe, which means “One equal to Thousands.” He granted them immunity and they lived in luxury for the remainder of their lives, in Tonga. Years later, one of the princesses of Tonga went to Samoa to negotiate peace. She told stories of the fine mat her father was gifted that saved the lives of one his wives and her mother. The king of Samoa being intrigued by her story asked her to bring the mat to him as a peace offering. She agreed and gifted it to the King of Samoa and he named it “Ie Toga” which it is still called today and when translated “ie” means cloth and “toga” treasured or valuable.
Although the full details of the story may be lost, the Ie Toga (pronounced: eeyeh tō nga) is real and still produced today. Made from the Pandanus plant, the Ie Toga was used as currency in the olden days of Samoa and is still very valuable today selling for at least $1,000.00 USD to upwards of $8,000.00 or more depending on the village it comes from and the fineness of the mat. They are typically used for important events,such as weddings, funerals, birthdays but most importantly the bestowing of titles and as a gift for royal dignitaries. The Ie Toga has not only become a priceless part of Samoan Culture but also a necessity.
Before the mat is created the leaves of the Pandanus plant are harvested while they are still green. From there the leaves are stripped of their thorny edges. There are Pandanus plants without thorns, but they are less desirable and are usually used for sleeping mats or other less important items. The thorny Pandanus leaves are preferred since they bleach well in the sun and are more resilient to abrasion. After the thorns are stripped away, the leaves are left in the sun to wilt for a few days and then rolled up and boiled with soap to whiten the leaves and prevent the leaves from tearing. Then leaves now are blonde and are dried and split into long strips and are now ready for weaving, The weave usually is a basic over under weave and depending on the thickness of the strips, the results of the mat will vary. When the mat is completed it is oiled and adorned with the red feathers of a rare parakeet.
As far as the properties of the Ie Toga it varies depending on the fineness of the strips of Panadanus used. Thick strips tend to crack and break easily where fine strips have more of a resilience to them and can act almost like fabric. It is an island made fabric so it goes without saying that it is not meant for the cold and has poor heat retention. It can break easily and is not the best when it comes to abrasion, even though steps were taken to help strengthen it. Comfortability and drape is moderate to poor, again depending on the thickness of the strips used. The hand of the fabric is very slick, almost plastic like, but without feeling too sticky and also it has great luster due to its oiling. Colors vary from camel to eggshell and can be dyed, but the dyes must be naturally found. If it is oiled well and taken care of, it will last years but regular usage will cause the fibers to crack and fray.
Although they are called mats,they are not used as such.The finest mats can have the flexibility of silk and are usually used in traditional costumes worn by High Chiefs and their council. When European explorers came to Samoa they admired that the Samoan people made fabric out of rough plants and were happy to trade their goods for mats. Cloth eventually replaced the Ie Toga as a fabric used for everyday clothing, but the value never decreased. In fact, due to the rarity of the mats and their weavers, the price has increased and continues to climb. Today there have been some alterations to the manufacturing process but the weaving method has stayed the same. For example, long bars of soap were used in boiling the leaves, but now laundry detergent is used. Beetle wings were used to strip the leaves but now knives are used. Even the decorations have changed, before the feathers of local birds were used to adorn the mats, now colored chicken feathers or yarn are used. Like the fashion industry now with “fast fashion”, the Ie Toga has had its share of quickly and poorly made mats. But, unlike the fashion industry, if the quality is poor, the weavers and their village will be shamed which will cause pandanus farmers to cut relations with them for fear of losing their reputation as well.
%20of%20the%20village.jpg)
The Ie Toga is a different kind of special use fabric. Where some fabrics are revered for their elasticity or durability, the Ie Toga is special for its cultural importance. It is still used as an integral part of Samoan culture. Being presented with one is a high honor, as it is usually presented to royalty and high political figures. Helen Clark, Prime Minister of New Zealand was presented one on her visit to Samoa where she gave an apology for years of oppression New Zealand inflicted on the Samoan people before their independence. Though some may not see the importance of this fabric, I believe that a fabric, whose value brought a king to his knees, is more than special enough.
Textiles: News
bottom of page